The area was founded by the French in 1605 as the first permanent European settlement in Canada. It was then destroyed by the British in 1613, rebuilt again by the French as the main town of Acadie, and then fought over for the better part of a century. In 1710, New England colonists claimed the town, once and for all, and renamed it in honour of their queen, Queen Anne. Annapolis Royal would then serve as Nova Scotia’s first capital, until 1749, when it was succeeded by the new town of Halifax. Today the town’s pretty and serene appearance certainly contradicts its turbulent past!
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Annapolis Royal thrived during the Great Age of Sail and became a bustling town with several industries, including shipbuilding which reached its peak in the late 1800s. Around that time Fort Anne was abandoned and the town started to decline. Thankfully, in the 1970s, a group of concerned and motivated citizens lobbied the government for help to preserve the town’s heritage and their efforts have paid off beautifully. In 2004, Annapolis Royal was designated the “World’s Most Liveable Small Community” and in 2005 it was listed as one of five “Cultural Capitals of Canada”.
Even with these accolades, and all the great things to see and do, Annapolis Royal is never crowded or busy, except maybe on summer Saturday mornings at its popular Farmers Market. You can definitely leave your busy week behind you and feel like you’ve taken a step back in time as you soak up the beauty and atmosphere in Annapolis Royal.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
WEEKEND IN ANNAPOLIS ROYAL, NOVA SCOTIA
Arrive in Annapolis Royal and Check-In
Friday Evening
- Waterfront Boardwalk and Annapolis Royal Lighthouse
- Dinner at Restaurant Composé
- Evening Show at King’s Theatre
Saturday Morning
Saturday Afternoon
Saturday Evening
Sunday Morning
Sunday Afternoon
This itinerary is based on visiting Annapolis Royal during the summer (high season).
Some attractions in Nova Scotia are closed or have limited hours during the off-season. Generally, the high (summer) season runs from early May to early October (Thanksgiving weekend), however, some attractions may not open until June.
We recommend you check opening times early in your planning process before you visit.
Annapolis Royal is about 200 km (2.5 hours) west of Halifax on Hwy 101. If you are coming from New Brunswick on the Fundy Rose ferry, it is about 35 km (30 minutes) east of Digby on Hwy 101.
While Annapolis Royal is on the bus route with Kings Transit, it is best to have your own car for this itinerary. Depending on where you are coming from, it could take the better part of a day to reach Annapolis Royal by bus. With a car, you can get there quicker, and you’ll be able to reach the attractions on this itinerary that are outside the town proper.
Once you arrive in Annapolis Royal, check in to the beautiful and historic Queen Anne Inn on St. George Street, which is Canada’s oldest street. From the inn, it is about a 10-minute walk along the pretty street that is lined with trees and heritage home to the centre of town where many of the attractions on this itinerary will be found.
Photo Credit: Tourism Nova Scotia
After settling into your room, take a walk into the heart of Annapolis Royal for a stroll before dinner along the waterfront boardwalk to relax in some of the chairs looking out across the river, or wander along the street visiting some of the town’s little shops.
On the boardwalk, you’ll pass the c1889 Annapolis Lighthouse which is located on the site of the old Government House that burned down in 1833. In days gone by, the Annapolis waterfront was quite busy, especially in the days of the steamer, City of Monticello, that transported passengers between Saint John, NB and the Windsor and Annapolis Railways that served the wharf in the Annapolis harbour.
Today the Annapolis Lighthouse continues as a working lighthouse signalling the end of navigable waters for vessels on the Annapolis River. It also serves as a visitor centre and the starting point of the award-winning National Historic District and Acadian Heritage tours.
READ MORE: Learn about great lighthouses in Nova Scotia (including the Annapolis Lighthouse)!
For dinner, continue soaking up the views of the Annapolis River at the Restaurant Composé.
Located next to the Annapolis Lighthouse on the boardwalk, you can enjoy a fine dinner on the waterfront patio while watching the sun start to go down. The restaurant offers innovative, fresh dishes using locally sourced ingredients from the land and sea, complemented with a great selection of fine wines – some of which come from nearby wineries in the Annapolis Valley such as Tidal Bay, Nova Scotia’s signature white wine.
After dinner, if it’s not too late, head just a few doors down the street to the historic King’s Theatre for an evening show. Opened in 1921 as a movie house, this intimate, but up-to-date theatre now offers shows ranging from movies, musical and dance performances, variety shows, to touring plays. Stop by, call, or check out their website to see what’s on their program during your visit.
Alternatively, continue your wander along the boardwalk after dinner, stopping at one of the benches to watch the sunset before walking back to the inn for a nightcap on their garden patio or in one of the sitting rooms.
Start your day in Annapolis Royal with a delicious and filling three-course breakfast at the inn. Enjoy coffee, tea, or juice with options such as homemade blueberry scones, locally preserved jams, Belgium waffles, omelets, smoothies, and seasonal fruit.
Head out about 8:45 for the 10-15 minute to Canada’s first National Historic Site – Fort Anne – which overlooks the Annapolis Basin from the heart of Annapolis Royal.
Considered a key stronghold for Nova Scotia or Acadie (depending on if you were British or French), Fort Anne is a lovely place to learn about the early history of the area and the newly developing nation of Canada. First fortified in 1629 when the Scottish built Charles Fort (actually a separate National Historic Site on the same grounds), this land has been fortified on at least eight occasions since then and is considered the “most attacked spot in Canadian history”.
Designed in a star-shaped layout, the earthworks from the French fort of 1702 remain and have been made into the 530 metre long ‘Perimeter Trail’ that locals come to for hikes, or to let the kids play on the grassy knolls.
The site features officers’ quarters (c1797) that were built by the British and now house a museum about the fort and the Acadians in the area. Of particular note is the Heritage Tapestry which depicts 400 years of history and settlement that even Queen Elizabeth II had a little hand in creating with a few of the stitches!
Also at Fort Anne, you’ll also find the 1708 gunpowder magazine which is the oldest building in Canada’s National Historic Site collection. There is a lot of history here!
On the grounds of Fort Anne, you’ll also find the Garrison Cemetery which is the oldest English cemetery in Canada and worth a little stroll if you have time. You’ll be back to this cemetery in the evening but is an interesting place to visit in the daylight too.
Originally the burial grounds for the French military forces, it later served both the British military and the local parish. The earliest tombstone still in place dates back to 1720, and there are quite a few different types of headstones to see, including early slate markers.
After a couple of hours exploring Fort Anne, make your way along St George Street for the five-minute walk to the Annapolis Royal Farmers & Traders Market. Open Saturday until 1:00 pm in the summer months, you’ll find everything from artisanal bread, cured meats, homemade sweets and preserves, fresh Annapolis Valley produce, and handcrafted items to remember your visit to the town and Nova Scotia.
The market is THE place in Annapolis Royal to stock up on supplies for a picnic lunch back on the grounds of Fort Anne, which we highly recommend! There are a few picnic tables (some with great views of the fort and Annapolis Basin) or you can just find a shady spot under a tree.
Do save a little room for dessert though as you can pick up a cone of ice cream at a local favourite called ‘1 Scoop 2 Scoop’ that is just across the street from Fort Anne (if you are near the Town Hall end of the fort grounds).
After lunch, it’ll be time to make your way to the Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens to spend a couple of hours before dinner. Along the way, you can browse some of the little shops or pop into ARTSPLACE, a contemporary gallery and arts centre with exhibitions that change frequently so there is always something new to see.
It is just a few more minutes walk along St. George Street to the gardens – one of the most popular attractions on the scenic Evangeline Trail in Nova Scotia.
Set on a gentle hill overlooking a tidal river valley, the beautifully designed Historic Gardens reflect various periods of local history through a gardening perspective.
With 17 acres to explore with historic themes such as a Victorian Garden absolutely full of colour, a Knot Garden styled after a hedge garden from the Middle Ages, a wooden boardwalk and Dyke Trail, and an Acadian house and vegetable garden from the 1600s.
After a visit to the gardens, you’ll see why there were named the 2015 Canadian Garden of the Year. They are a wonderful resource for avid heritage gardening enthusiasts, but even for novice gardeners (like us!) they are gorgeous and a lovely way to spend an afternoon in Annapolis Royal.
After your visit to the gardens, it is only about a three-minute walk back to the Queen Anne Inn to relax with a drink in their lovely gardens before freshening up for dinner.
Keeping with the historical feel of the weekend, the Garrison House, built in 1854, is a registered heritage property that makes a lovely place for dinner.
Located across the road from Fort Anne, the Garrison House is a B&B but has a restaurant that is open to everyone, not just guests of the inn. The chef is known for sourcing seasonal produce and using local ingredients to make specialties such as Digby scallops or pork medallions served with Annapolis Valley fruit chutney.
After a leisurely dinner, head back to Fort Anne for what might possibly be the highlight of your weekend in Annapolis Royal – a Candlelight Graveyard Tour. The award-winning tour began in 1991 and has been consistently rated as one of the most popular events in Nova Scotia ever since!
On the tour, you’ll examine the gravestones in the Garrison Cemetery, the oldest English graveyard in Canada, while learning about the lives and customs of the people who shaped Fort Anne and the surrounding area. You don’t need to make a reservation, just show up about 15 minutes before the tour begins wearing comfy shoes and be ready to enjoy a great evening out in Annapolis Royal.
READ MORE: To learn more, check out this video about the Annapolis Royal Candlelight Graveyard Tour
Before checking out of the Queen Anne Inn on Sunday morning, be sure to fill up with their hearty breakfast so you’ll be ready for the morning’s hike.
Just a short drive from Annapolis Royal, the Delap’s Cove Wilderness Trail offers two nature trails – Charlie’s Trail and Bohaker Trail – that are linked by the Shore Road Trail. If you were to complete all the trails it would take about 3-4 hours but for your weekend in Annapolis Royal, we recommend just the Bohaker Trail which takes about an hour to walk.
The Bohaker Trail is a 2.2 km loop that is relatively easy, yet very rewarding. The trail starts with a path in the woods and quickly makes its way to the rocky shore (if you follow it counterclockwise). You’ll then walk along the coast on a mix of dirt paths and wooden boardwalks until you reach a small cove with a waterfall!
The waterfall is fed from a small stream so depending on the time of year you visit, it could be anything from a trickle to quite a rushing waterfall. The trail is well marked so you’ll see signs that will direct you to a viewing platform right at the top of the falls where you can see the basalt lava rocks and out to the Bay of Fundy. If the tide is out, you can make your way down into the cove, but we’d only recommend doing this if you are aware of the tides so you don’t get trapped by an incoming tide and you are very sure-footed as it can be a difficult, steep climb down.
After visiting the falls, you’ll head back on the trail which again runs through a wooded area back to the parking lot. This trail is especially nice on warm summer days because you’ll be in the shaded woods for most of the trail and along the rocky coastline with cooler breezes off the bay. That said, don’t forget sunscreen and a hat!
At the parking lot, you’ll find a small picnic area and washrooms along with information and a map for the trails. To read reviews and see more photos and a trail map, check out the Bohaker Trail on All Trails.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Unfortunately, ticks are becoming more common in Nova Scotia and are something you should be aware of any time you spend time in wooded areas or where there is long grass. You don’t need to be afraid of them, but you do need to be mindful because some ticks can carry Lyme disease. It is important to take precautions such as using insect repellent, wearing appropriate clothing, and checking for ticks on yourself and your pets when you complete your hike.
For more information, click for tick safety from the Government of Nova Scotia and check out the eTick app that can help you identify ticks (as not all species of ticks are a concern).
After your hike in Delap’s Cove, it is time for one of my absolute favourites for lunch – seafood chowder from the Crow’s Nest. So, so good!
About a ten-minute drive from Delap’s Cove, the Crow’s Nest is located in the little community of Hillsburn and is much loved by locals. They have many options on their menu, including non-seafood for those that aren’t fans. If you like seafood though, I highly recommend their seafood chowder.
Made fresh daily, this rich chowder is packed full of haddock, scallops, potatoes, and lobster and is served with crackers and a roll. They have two sizes – a cup or a bowl – depending on how hungry you are. I’ve personally only had the bowl size and I have almost always had some to take home with me, it’s that filling. Bon appétit!
To finish off your weekend in Annapolis Royal, head to Port-Royal National Historic Site which is one of the most historically important sites in not just Canada, but all of North America!
In 1605 Sieur de Mons and Samuel de Champlain, both from France, established this first European settlement north of St. Augustine, Florida after spending the disastrous winter of 1604 on St. Croix Island between New Brunswick and Maine.
The Port-Royal Habitation is also the site of many other firsts for Canada including the first tended crops, first staged play, first water mill, and the first social club called the ‘Order of Good Cheer’ which still exists today. Unfortunately, it didn’t have the first fire department and the original fortress burned down within a decade.
Between 1939-1940 the Canadian government built the reconstruction of the c1605 French fur-trading post, that you can visit today, based on de Champlain’s drawings and using 17th-century construction techniques were possible. The buildings form a rectangle around a courtyard and include a governor’s house, priest’s dwelling, bakery, guardroom, kitchen, communal dining room, and a blacksmith’s shop – all furnished with period reproductions.
The costumed interpreters will show you the techniques and tools the pioneers brought with them and will talk about life in the colony for a fascinating look into the life of the early French settlers in this region. As you sit in the dining room, you’ll almost be able to imagine the chatter and laughter as the men ate their meals together over four centuries ago!
The approximate costs for a weekend in Annapolis Royal (based on this itinerary) are as follows:
Accommodations at Queen Anne Inn – $350.00/two people
- Based on a two-night stay for two people in Room Seven that includes a four-poster bed and separate sitting area and is a guest favourite for romantic weekends
Things to Do in Annapolis Royal – $46.00/person
- King’s Theatre – $12.00
- Fort Anne National Historic Site – $4.00
- Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens – $16.00
- Candlelight Graveyard Tour – $10.00
- Delap’s Cove Wilderness Trail – Free
- Port-Royal National Historic Site – $4.00
Dining in Annapolis Royal – $135.00/person
- Restaurant Composé – $60.00 (+ drinks) for a three-course dinner
- Farmers Market Picnic Lunch – $10.00
- One Scoop Two Scoop – $5.00
- Garrison House – $45.00 (+ drinks) for a three-course dinner
- Crow’s Nest – $15 for seafood chowder
Total Cost Per Person (based on double occupancy at the B&B) = $356.00
Annapolis Royal is a perfect romantic getaway for couples looking to treat themselves to some fine dining and a stay in a historic B&B.
Have you ever visited Annapolis Royal? Do you have any tips to add on what to see, do, and eat?
Looking for more information to plan your visit to Nova Scotia? You may find these articles helpful.
RESOURCES | PLAN YOUR WEEKEND IN ANNAPOLIS ROYAL
To book flights, rental cars, accommodations, and activities for your trip, please check out our recommended travel providers, favourite apps and websites.
Our favourite guidebooks for planning our adventures in Nova Scotia:
- Fodor’s Travel: Nova Scotia & Atlantic Canada
- Frommer’s Easy Guide to Prince Edward Island, Nova Scotia, and New Brunswick
- Moon Atlantic Canada: Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island, Newfoundland & Labrador
- Lonely Planet: Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Prince Edward Island
- Nova Scotia Book of Everything
- Bradt: Nova Scotia – This book is the most comprehensive and what I consider to be the very best Nova Scotia guidebook.
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